STEP 6 The forward RE required modification to allow it to fit "around" the hull. This was done by cutting the centre out of the top on one RE and the opposite inner tabs off both of the RE's. The tabs were removed so that the battens one each side can pass through the ribs.

STEP 7 O.K step 7 and the first problem, the battens are forcing "fingers" at each end of the ribs to spread, thus making it hard to slip the RE's onto the ribs. East fixed by removing the 2nd and last rib and filing down the outside of the opposite top and bottom fingers. (fig 7)

STEP 8 Once the ribs were filed down the RE's were slipped on and checked for fit. The rear RE would be glued flush with the rear rib on to a sheet of styrene plastic. The forward RE will be glued only halfway onto the rib leaving 2-3mm for the 3mm MBF cladding to rest on. to support the rear of the RE scrap MDF (3 or 6mm) is glued flush with the top and bottom edges of the rib (fig 8))

photo pending

STEP 9 Plastic sheeting is expensive but MDF is cheap so you might want to try this idea Using 3mm MDF to clad the hull I can then use a thinner (cheaper) sheet of plastic to cover the MDF to glue all the detail to. The rear of the stern rib, the front of the forward RE and the front of the bow rib were laid on the thin plastic and roughly traced. The plastic was cut out with an overhang and glued to the MDF. The overhang was left to cover the edge of the MDF sheets that will be attached to the top and bottom of the hull. NOTE that the front, smaller rib is inside the RE, DON'T do this as the glue spreads and glues them together, not good as they are at opposite ends of the hull. NOTE also the holes in the rear (top in pic) rib to allow the battens to go through.

STEP 10 The rear rib with the plastic sheet glued on and clamped, now just 24 hours to wait! (fig 10)