STEP 11 While all that glue is drying I took time to make the hull a bit more accessible to wiring. I cut a short length of the keel pipe and inserted it in the internal ribs. This got them centred and a scrap of 6mm in one of the bridge support notches aligned them. Using a spade bit I drilled through them all in one pass. Now I have a series of holes in the ribs running the full length of the hull. (fig 11)

STEP 12 The 2 bridge uprights al needed to be clad on opposite side. I cut out 2 rough shapes and using "nibblers" cut notches around the 2 slots on each piece that were going to fit into the matching slots in the top of ribs 5 and six. Once the glue was dry the plastic was trimmed with the same 3mm overhanging edge and the slots for the bridge top and bottom also cut out. (fig 12).

STEP 13 The RE for rib 6 also needed a plastic surface as a small amount of it would be visible once the cladding was finished. As you can see you can never have too many clamps! (fig 13)

STEP 14 Once dry the rib was also trimmed leaving a 3 mm overhang. The hole for the wiring was drilled and a starter hole for the nibbler to cut out the keel hole. (fig 14)

STEP 15 Shown in the RE for the 6th rib with holes for the battens, wiring and keel. Also each side of the keel hole can be seen 2 pieces of 3mm MDF Scrap, this will hole the RE off the rib as noted in step 8. (fig 15).)