So..... How do I build this bloody thing?

It should be easy even for the less advanced modeller or scratchbuilder to do with simple tools All you'll need is a hammer, drill and bits, screws and glue, your hardware parts and some common sense

Slipping the "Ribs" on the "Keel" This is the easy part and once you've got this done you'll appreciate just how big these hulls are! Method Just push the ribs on to either your 38mm (1.1/2 inch) or 50mm (2 inch pipe) they should be a snug fit, to aid strength. If they are tight you can loosen them by sanding lightly the inside of the keel ring on the rib and/or the keel pipe.. Roughly get them all aliged. To align them simply lay the hull down on a smooth flat surface and holding the KEEL push down firmly with one of the flat sides of the hull always in contact with the surface (figs 1 & 2) fig 1 Aligning the ribs fig 2 Ribs alined Method for fixing the battens These are wooden trim pieces used in all sorts of woodworking Some of the hulls use these which measure 3/4 x 1/2 inch (18mm x 12mm) by the length you want your ship to be. Other hulls have MDF laser cut battens included in the template. (Each type is noted in the list of materials for each ship). The easiest way to position the battens is once the pipe spine is in place with the hull ribs attached but NOT glued in place. Place the frame on a flat surfaces and push or gently tap with a hammer each batten until they lie below the surface (fig 3). fig 3 Fixing the Battens Method for fixing Ribs to Keel Either glue the ribs to the keel pipe with one of those thick construction glues like Liquid Nails or drill a hole through each rib at an angle into the keel and insert a screw (fig 4). A mix of both is probably best. fig 4 Fixing the Ribs to Keel The Basic Support (2 easy types & 1 Advanced one) The support is the first thing you shoud do after you have the hull assembled. It'll make the rest of the work a breeze with the hull strongly supported. Also some of you may want to film your finished ship for those backyard science fiction files and having one (or more) strong support will give you more shooting options. Method 1. PVC "T" Piece Mounting Method The pipe is used as the Spine or Keel of the ship. Being quite ridged and strong makes it the ideal choice. The two diffrent sizes of central hole 1-1/2 inch (38mm) and 2 inch (50mm) are due to the smaller physical size of some of the ships. Parts from two diffrent kit with diffrent size holes could still be put togeather using an approapate adaptor fitting. PVC pipe of the same size could be used and be easier to work with however strength could be a factor depending on how much weight it'll be supporting. In total you'll need 2 pieces of stright pipe and 1 "T" piece. Which ever type of pipe you choose the method for working out how much you need is the same.(fig 5) PLAESE NOTE This method requires that the "T" piece mount be as close to the centre of the model to ensure balance and an even distribution of the weight fig 5 The "T" Piece Support Method 2. Threaded Rod Mounting Method This one is simple. A wooden base the is the same lenght as the finished model with 2 or 3 10mm threaded rods sticking stright up out of it. Matching holes are drilled in the keel pipe and the hulls is mounted on the rods with 2 nuts, one below and one above.(fig 6) The thread can be hidden by slipping brass or plastic pipe cut to size over the rod before mounting the hull. fig 6 The Threaded Rod Support Method 3. Metal plumbers Pipe, Nuts and an Arc Welder Stright forward provieded you have an Arc welded and the skill to use it. Simply weld multiple 10mm nuts on to the pipe at the disred positions. It would be easier to weld the nuts on befor you slip the ribs on the pipe because the metal will get hot and could scorch the MDF ribs causing them to be loose on the pipe. To get the ribs on after the metal has cooled cut a notch on the edge of the keel hole and use that to slip over the nuts (fig 7). NOTE the nuts have to be staggered along the length of the pipe because if you have 2 nuts at the same distance from one end of the pipe you would need 2 holes cut in each rib to slip over the 2 nuts. Cutting 2 holes int each ribs in not only time consuming and tedious but would also weaken the rib too much. fig 7 The Welded Support If you've gotten this far you should end up with this! The Frame is Finished, Now What?

Now you Clad the hull This is where a veneer callipers really comes in handy, see (fig 8) Any hardware store will have them, from $5.00 plastic one's to $200+ digital ones. They are really necessary to complete this part of the building and much more accurate that a ruler.	fig 8 Veneer Callipers
The method is simple Just measure each straight lengths of each rib, allow for the thicknes of you cladding material, and transfer the measurement to the material and cut. Always work from the deepest part of the hull to the surface (fig 9) NOTE: This example uses a rib from the Tramp Steamer Hull 03, but the principal is the same for all the hulls	fig 9 Mesauring Straight Lengths
The not to tricky bit, the corners Where the corners meet you have a few options. The first is a simple butt joint. That is where the cladding material meets at either a 90 degree angle or edge to edge on a flat side, no filling should be needed. (fig 10) In fig 10 the left hand corner has an "overhang" into the opening. This is quite common on a lot of Hollywood space ship as it helps to give the appearance of depth to the hull, making it more realistic. The Millennium Falcon is probably the best know ship with this effect with those holes on the forward "prongs" of the ship. This method also helps the modeller by hiding the area where the detail parts butt up against the side of the hole. Just fill the recess with detail and lay a sheet of plastic over it with a smaller size hole cut in it, instant believability!	fig 10 Square Corners
Angled corners Two ways to do angled corners. Butt join the corners then fill the gap with modeling putty (fig 110. Or cut the sheets with a beveled edge so the diffrent sides of the join meet on a common plane (fig 12). You can do this by getting a framers cutting knife which allows angled cuts, provided the material your cutting isn't too thick 2 to 3mm for plastic at most.	fig 11 Angled corners filled with Modeling Putty fig 12 Angled corners Bevel Joined

What's all this about choosing how big to make the hull?

The only limiting factor when deciding how long you want the hill is the strength and stiffness of the keel pipe you use, and a bit of common sense. Too long and the pipe may sag under its own weight. Also you have to consider the next steps, cladding the hull, sizes of plastic sheet etc. 10 to 20cm between the ribs is recommended but if you can work out a way to make your hull longer good luck to you and share it with every one on the Starship hulls forum